My Blog

Is your life worth $20?

05/16/2012 12:50:00

Is your life worth $20?

I am still amazed that there are occupied homes that do not have a working smoke detector! In the course of performing home inspections I get the chance to examine hundreds of homes each year, and disappointingly, the majority of the homes either have no working smoke detectors, an inadequate number of detectors or detectors that are not placed to provide protection to the occupants. These observations bear out my experience of 28 years as a professional firefighter. Sadly, I have seen people lose their homes, possessions and even their lives because the home was not protected by properly installed and functioning smoke detectors.

During an inspection a few days ago I found 6 smoke detectors in place in a two story home. The units were placed inside bedrooms, the living room and in a small room on the first floor which was being used as an office. The only working unit was installed in the office. All the bedroom detectors had been unplugged from the wiring that powered the units and interconnected them and were not operable. The living room unit did not respond to the use of the test button and I found the manufacturers installation instructions wrapped in the power connector, it had never been connected after installation. When I asked the sellers of the home about the condition of the detectors their reply was that when the battery backup in a unit would run down they could never determine which unit needed a new battery... so they disconnected all the bedroom units. When I asked about the smoke detector in the office that was in operable condition the reply was that all the important documents were stored in the office and that they wanted to protect these because many could not be replaced... You just can't make this stuff up.

First alert Detectors at www.firstalert.com

Why does the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommend that home smoke alarms be replaced after 10 years?
Smoke alarms have a limited life. Although each smoke alarm and all of its parts have passed many stringent tests and are designed to be as reliable as possible, any of these parts could fail over time. Therefore, you must test the devices weekly. The unit should be replaced immediately if it is not operating properly. The performance of smoke detectors older than 10 years is simply not reliable. To ensure your family's safety, all carbon monoxide and smoke/CO combination alarms need to be replaced every 5 years. All smoke alarms need to be replaced every 10 years.

Kidde alarms at www.kidde.com

National Fire Protection Association. Tons of information on everything related to fire safety.

http://www.nfpa.org/categoryList.asp?categoryID=244&URL=Safety%20Information/For%20consumers

Maintaining you plumbing system.

04/25/2011 11:27:00

Maintaining your plumbing system. Tips
and Hints

The average household plumbing system represents an investment of about fifteen percent of the value
of the house. No part of the house is more important. Nothing in the house is used more often. A smoothly functioning plumbing system is essential to a healthy and more convenient home.

These tips and hints were written with the objective of helping home owners as well as renters keep
their plumbing systems in good operating condition. This list is a set of general guidelines and should not be relied upon as the sole source of your maintenance efforts. An annual checkup of your system is recommended and your plumbing contractor can advise you on any special circumstances that may need
particular attention. The sale value of a house with sound plumbing is far greater than that of a house where plumbing is in poor repair.

There are many things that an owner or renter can do; there are many things that should be left to an
expert - the plumbing contractor and his staff of plumbers. Minor repairs should be made promptly. Annoyances such as a blocked drain, dripping faucet or a leaking flush valve in the toilet, are more than a mere bother - they usually waste money.

Major repairs,
replacements, and new plumbing installations should be left to a licensed and competent plumbing contractor. Improper installation of plumbing components can lead to health problems for those living in the home and can lead to even larger expenditures later on to correct problems.

Leaking Hot Water Units

There can be nothing more distressing than a leaking hot water unit, particularly if the unit is
located inside the home. There are only a limited number of places that a hot water unit can leak from. The pressure and temperature relief valve is located near the top and to one side of your hot water unit and will have a small lever on it. This lever should be gently lifted every six months or so to flush the
valve free of accumulated debris. Be careful when you do this as hot water will come out of the relief line under pressure - keep your valuable body parts out of the way!

After 10 seconds or so, gently let the lever back down and the flow should stop. The relief valve
is designed to leak small amounts of water particularly on the heating cycle (after someone has had a shower for example) to stop the excessive build up of pressure inside the hot water unit itself. Unfortunately, it is a fact of life that these valves do eventually wear out and need to be replaced. If you notice water running from the relief line on a continual basis the valve needs to be replaced. The longer you let it run the higher your electricity or gas bill is going to be as the unit is constantly heating water even though you are not using it.

The second place a hot water unit can leak from is the element gasket. The element will be near the
bottom and near the top of the hot water unit where the electrical wires enter and are covered by a box or plate. The element has a rubber gasket around it where it penetrates the tank itself and these do deteriorate over time causing leakage. Obviously, leaks from this area should be treated as a matter of some
urgency due to the close proximity of the leak to the electrical supply. The unit usually needs to be drained and the element removed to allow replacement of the gasket. Always use a licensed and competent plumber when dealing with any aspect of your electricity system and supply - it simply isn't worth risking your life for the sake of a few dollars.

The third place the unit can leak is from the cylinder itself. In the great majority of cases a
leaking hot water cylinder means the unit is beyond repair and will require replacement.

Ok, my hot water unit is leaking, how do I isolate it?

There should be a valve located on the cold water supply line. Carefully touch the lines to determine which is the cold line. The hot water line from the unit usually will not have a valve. This valve will
normally have a red, black, or yellow handle or may have a circular knob of one of these colors. Slowly rotate the handle clockwise until the handle stops. The water may continue to leak for several minutes until the pressure is reduced but should slow and eventually stop. If there is no valve at or near the water
heater you may need to turn off the main supply to stop the water flow at the unit.

Next, go to your electrical panel and locate the hot water circuit breaker. The great majority of homes have a separate circuit for the hot water unit and this circuit should be marked as such. Flick the switch marked hot water to the 'off' position. Once you have done this you have now isolated both the water and power supply to the unit. If you don't isolate the power supply and the unit does drain dry the
element will remain active and will overheat due to the lack of water. If the water heater is a gas fired unit you will also need to turn off the gas supply or the gas valve at the bottom of the unit.

No Hot Water

Another annoying thing about hot water units is that every now and again they stop producing hot
water. If there is no apparent leak from the unit then there are a number of possible causes. The element or thermostat may have failed. The plumber can undertake checks to test whether or not power is getting to both the element and thermostat - never try to do this yourself. If the everything checks out ok
it may mean a problem with the electrical supply from the switchboard itself. If this is the case, a licensed electrician will be required to locate and rectify the problem. With gas fired units the cause could be a faulty gas valve, thermostat, or even a bad pilot light component. If the pilot light will not remain on or if the unit has an electronic ignition system the unit will require repair.

Water Hammer

In order to prevent water hammering always turn faucets on and off softly. Curing water hammer can
be a process of elimination and, in certain cases, may require the fitting of water hammer arrestors.

Don't over tighten faucets or valves when turning them off. Turning off a faucet too hard can split the
washer and a drip will turn into a flow. If the faucet or valve is continually dripping have it serviced before it wears the seat and the cost to repair becomes greater.

Familiarize yourself with the location of your water meter (normally located near the street or
alley in a concrete, steel, or plastic meter vault) and its operation so that you know how to isolate your water should a problem arise.

Gutters

Have your gutters and downspouts cleaned out twice a year. Debris sitting in gutters and downspouts is
a major cause of corrosion. Corroded gutters are expensive to repair or replace. Having leaf guards fitted to the gutters to stop debris from settling may help to eliminate some of the cleaning.

During a heavy
downpour, a blocked downspout can cause a backup of water in the gutters which can overflow into the eaves and into your ceiling space. If you find this is happening you can alleviate the problem immediately by making a reasonable size hole in the base of the offending downspout. This will allow the water to
escape in to your yard rather than into your ceiling - it will be cheaper to replace or repair a downspout than your plaster or sheetrock ceiling!

Drains

It pays to have your sewer and storm drains checked on an annual basis. Some plumbers offer a service to run a video camera through the lines to visually pinpoint problem areas and causes of blockage. This inspection can locate the exact area that is blocked and the repairs are normally faster and less expensive since the cause & exact location are known. Root growth and blockages can cause extensive damage that
may mean drain excavation and replacement if left unfixed. Maintenance is much cheaper than replacement.

If your sink drains are chronically slow and you live in an older house, the problem may be an
accumulation of grease and sludge in the lines. No amount of plunging and chemicals is going to fix this. Rectification of the problem can require use of some type of pipe cleaning or high pressure water jet to clear the affected line.

Many people attempt to clear their blocked drains by poking their household hose down the sewer or storm water line to try and flush out whatever is causing the blockage. This approach is rarely successful but if you do decide to try this make sure you remove the nozzle and fittings from the hose first. The nozzle can (and will) get snagged down the drain pipe and attempts to retrieve the hose by force can result in the nozzle detaching itself. Now you not only have the original blockage but the wayward nozzle is now compounding the problem.

Be careful of what you flush down toilet drains. Sewer systems are designed for biodegradable toilet
tissue only. Don't flush grease down the sink - it may look like it is gone but it will build up in your drains and block eventually.

Water conservation facts and tips·
The average American home uses nearly 100,000 gallons of water per year.

A dripping faucet can waste more than 500 gallons of water a month!

A leaking toilet can waste more than 4,000 gallons of water per year.

That single dripping faucet and leaking toilet costs you a considerable amount of money over the course of a year.

An eight minute shower with a normal shower head uses around 30 gallons of water. A water efficient showerhead will use less than 18 gallons for the same period.

A tap left running can waste up to 4 gallons of water a minute - almost 1.5 quarts every 5 seconds.
Don't leave taps running when you brush your teeth or shave. Put the plug in before commencing to fill the sink - don't wait for the water to get hot first.

How to tell if you have a leaking pipe

Wait until everyone is finished using the water for the evening (showers, toilets, dishwashers, etc).
Locate your water meter which is normally just outside the front boundary of your property and most are covered by a lid that will be flush with the ground. Open the lid (you may need a small screwdriver to pry the lid open) and you will see a small lever handle at one end and a water meter in the middle.
Write down the meter reading on a piece of paper. Ensure nobody uses the water till morning when you check the meter again and write down number again. If the morning figure is higher then it is quite probable that you have a water leak that needs to be located and repaired as soon as possible.

By the way, that small lever next to your meter can be used to isolate the water supply to your home.
Gently turn the lever to turn the water off. Be careful when you turn if back on - turn it on slowly to allow the house system to repressurise gently.

Is the leak my problem or water supplier’s?

If the water leak is on your side of the main water meter to your property it is your responsibility. If the leak is on the street side of the water meter the leak is water supplier’s responsibility.

Dirty or Discolored Water

Dirty or discolored water could be caused by a number if things. If the cold water supply is dirty
it may simply mean that water supplier has been undertaking water main work in your area and sediments in the water mains have been disturbed. Always check with water supplier first to see if this is the case before calling a plumber. If water supplier have been undertaking works on the water mains the problem
will normally settle in a short period of time and your water will return to normal.

Reddish or rust colored water from your hot water supply can mean that the internal cylinder of your
hot water service is badly corroded and will require replacement in the very near future. Flushing and refilling of the unit is a stop gap solution and will not solve the problem. Unfortunately, there is no easy fix for his situation.

What is the problem with Federal Pacific "STab-Lok" panels?

03/22/2011 05:44:00

Defective electrical components

Electrical systems in residential structures can and do require some attention over time. While the wiring itself will normally last a lifetime some of the other components of the system will require replacement. The National Association of Home Builders has published its research into the typical lifespan of building systems and components at Inspectapedia site at http://www.inspectapedia.comis a great source of information on all these panel types. Mr. Friedman goes into great detail and includes information from the Consumer Products Safety Commission and from a number of research facilities which have conducted testing on several of these panel brands. Searching for any of these brands in Google, Bing or any other search engine will bring up a wealth of sites with information. As with any information from the internet you should be careful of the information that you receive. Anecdotal, misleading and just plain wrong information can be posted by just about anyone and with some small amount of effort and this info can appear to be legitimate. The following information is reprinted from D. Friedman’s Inspectapedia site.

What is The FPE Stab-Lok Hazard

Federal Pacific Electric (FPE Stab-Lok®) was a widely-distributed electrical panel brand throughout the United States and under the Federal Pioneer brand, also in Canada very similar product continues to be sold. For years, anecdotes and field reports about FPE Stab-Lok® hazards and defects have been discussed at professional conferences and occasionally in the media. Field reports of recalls, poor and even fraudulent manufacturing & labeling, house fires, and injuries have been reported attributed to this product. Independent testing confirms that FPE Stab-Lok® circuit breakers fail to trip, at times as much as 70-80 percent of the time. We have found no data indicating that circuit breakers from other manufacturers fail at anywhere near this high rate. The equipment is a fire and injury hazard.

Fraudulent FPE Stab-Lok®practice: In 2002, in a class action lawsuit in New Jersey, the Court ruled that over many years FPE had violated the NY Consumer Fraud Act. Specifically, the court found that "... FPE knowingly and purposefully distributed circuit breakers which were not tested to meet UL standards as indicated on their label. This constitutes an unlawful practice proscribed by the Act."[1] The court's decision, which was based on extensive evidence that included FPE's own documents, confirmed long-standing allegations of FPE's fraudulent testing practices. [2]
High FPE Stab-Lok® failure rates: Despite FPE's fraudulent testing and falsified UL labeling, defective FPE Stab-Loc circuit breakers were installed in millions of residences throughout the United States. Tests on more than 500 Stab-Lok breakers from homes across the country show defective performance for about 1/3 of the two-pole FPE Stab-Loc circuit breakers and about 1/5 of the single-pole FPE Stab-Loc circuit breakers in those tests. [3] Most recent FPE Stab-Lok testing of 830 breakers from a New Jersey condominium found failures to trip on response to overcurrent in up to 70% of cases where 2-pole breakers were installed. 80% failure rate has been demonstrated on GFCI breakers, and 100% failures to trip occur on jammed 2-pole breakers experiencing a second overcurrent event. [5]
FPE Stab-Lok® fire & injury hazard: In addition to the failure of these circuit breakers to protect a building and its occupants from dangerous overcurrents, switching an FPE Stab-Lok circuit breaker to the "off" position may leave the breaker "on" internally, risking serious or fatal electrical shock. Based on failure studies and field reports, experts estimate that FPE Stab-Lok panels cause significant annual property damage losses, injuries, and deaths each year. [6]
FPE Stab-Lok® is a latent fire and shock hazard: the presence of the equipment in a home does not itself initiate a failure. Rather, when a dangerous overcurrent occurs, the equipment is likely to fail to provide the safety protection that is expected of circuit breakers. For this reason, an owner's failure to observe a problem "up to now" is absolutely no assurance that the panel is safe. It may simply be that an overcurrent has not previously occurred and the circuit breakers have not been called-on to do their job.
FPE Stab-Lok® equipment violates the National Electrical Code Because of the proven high defect rate, the FPE Stab-Loc breakers do not provide the circuit protection that is required by applicable codes and standards (NEC and UL). This constitutes an increased risk of fire and injury. [4] NEC-240-2 "Equipment shall be protected against overcurrent ..." - a building with FPE a Stab-Lok electrical panel does not meet the requirements of the NEC nor of any other electrical code.
FPE Stab-Lok® field inspection or testing not reliable: There is no practical way that a licensed electrician, inspector, or engineer can determine which breakers in a given electrical panel are seriously defective internally. The only way to do that is by means of functional and life test procedures that they are not trained to do nor equipped to perform. Do not attempt field testing of FPE Stab-Lok® equipment. Doing so risks serious fire or injury, and testing, even simply switching breakers on and off increases the risk of a future failure to trip.

Replace FPE Stab-Lok® equipment: Given these facts, FPE Stab-Lok electrical panels and circuit breakers should be considered an un-due fire and injury risk and we recommend that the equipment be replaced completely. (Do not purchase and install replacement circuit breakers)
[1] FPE CLASS ACTION LAWSUIT: Partial Summary Judgment decision dated 8/15/2002 -http://inspectapedia.com/fpe/FPEJudgement8-15-02.pdf - by Judge Bryan D. Garruto, J.S.C., Superior Court of New Jersey, Law Division: Middlesex County, Docket No L_2904-97.

[2] FPE Exxon Scandal Article "Exxon Buys a scandal Along With a Company", Business week,July 21, 1980, p. 66.

[3] 2008 - 2007 FPE Stab-Lok TECHNICAL REPORT (revised) - http://inspectapedia.com/fpe/FPE-Hazards-Revised-070525.pdf - an updated test report of independent testing using a larger pool of FPE Stab-Lok circuit breakers than the older CPSC and Wright Malta tests found significantly higher failure rates of FPE Stab-Lok circuit breakers, including a look at critical safety failures (breaker failed to trip at 200% of rated current or jammed) which found up to 80% failure rate for FPE Stab-Lok GFCI circuit breakers (n=4), 12% failure rate for double pole FPE Stab-Lok circuit breakers (n=120), and a 1% failure rate for FPE Stab-Lok single pole circuit breakers (n=345).

[4] Example: Dateline Journal (NJ), Feb 3, 1999, p. 1; and Letter, J. Aronstein to Richard Stern, Office of Compliance, US CPSC, 7 March 2006,
FPE Circuit Breakers - Field Incidents of fire and personal injury" - http://inspectapedia.com/fpe/CPSC-FPE-3JA.pdf

[5] [6] 2010 - "FPE Stab-Lok® Breakers," Dr. Jess Aronstein, to U.S. CPSC, 0/29/2010, Independent testing of 830 circuit breakers from a 63-unit New Jersey condominium, & personal communication

Consumers should report FPE failures and inspection/reporting issues to the U.S. CPSC; also report FPE Stab-Lok equipment failures, FPE home inspection or FPE hazard reporting issues to us

FEDERAL PIONEER equipment: Schneider Electric produces a version of this equipment in Canada under the name Federal Pioneer A Canadian Federal Pacific recall in 1997 - http://inspectapedia.com/fpe/schneider.htm - There has been no "recall" in the U.S. though there is no doubt that the product is hazardous and should be replaced.

Even more information on Federal Pacific Electric “Stab-Lok” panels is available at the Inspectapedia site

http://www.inspectapedia.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm . Also here are a couple of sites of electrical contractors who also state serious concerns with FPE “Stab-Lok” and several other brands of equipment.

http://www.myelectricianonline.com/faq_files/q17.htm

http://ismypanelsafe.com/

The equipment in your home may seem to be functioning as it was intended. The equipment may appear to be in good condition. The equipment may have never been a problem in the past. The bottom line is that if there have been problems with this brand or type of equipment and it should be examined by a licensed, qualified and competent electrical contractor. While the wiring in your home may last a lifetime, the breakers, switches, receptacles and the connections to this equipment are mechanical. Mechanical actions wear out over time. They are subject to failure, loose connection, heat & cool cycles, vibration and a host of other issues. The mechanical components of a home’s electrical system require inspection and maintenance and occasional updating. If you have panels that are marked as FPE “Stab-Lok”, Zinsco, Sylvania, “Push-o-Matic”, or Trumbull have them checked.If the panels, breakers or any components appear to be of an older type, have them examined. There are tons of issues with some of the older equipment and the manner in which many of the systems were installed and maintained. If you have a home that was built 30 or more years ago you should definitely have an electrical contractor go through the system to check for problems.

Is your house making you ill?

11/23/2010 12:15:00

Is Your House Making You Ill?

As the weather cools, we shut our windows and batten down the hatches. But we may be closing ourselves in with nasty chemicals. Read this and take easy steps to clean up indoor air pollution.

By Melinda Wenner Moyer

Most of us assume that when we walk into our homes, we slam the door on exhaust, secondhand smoke, and other air-pollution ugliness. In your own house, everything is safe and clean. Oh, if only. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), levels of about a dozen common chemical pollutants are two to five times higher inside homes than outside of them. Part of the problem is that houses are so much better insulated than they used to be: That's a good thing when it comes to conserving energy, but being more airtight also means that "whatever you emit indoors — whether it's your burnt microwave popcorn, cigarette smoke, or cleaning-product fumes — is going to persist in the indoor environment for longer," says Lynn Hildemann, an environmental engineer and researcher at Stanford University. In light of this, scientists are beginning to suspect that it may be these indoor nasties — not just outdoor smog — that are responsible for rising rates of asthma and other respiratory diseases. Indoor pollution can also cause headaches, flu-like symptoms, and, in serious cases, neurological problems.

We know this sounds scary, but don't panic: You can minimize your family's exposure with a few simple steps. None involve buying expensive products (the hulking air purifiers you see in SkyMall catalogs, etc.); in fact, some of the best fixes are the most basic.

DON'T LET THE BAD STUFF IN

Part of keeping the air in your house cleaner is simply not letting certain things into it in the first place. Easy ways to do that:

>> Kick off your shoes in the front hall. The bottoms of our shoes are covered in a fine layer of chemicals, dirt, bacteria, and mold. That stuff settles onto floors and into carpeting, and regular household activity can stir it up, causing you and your family to breathe it in, Hildemann says. Try stationing a shoe basket or rack in the entryway to keep things more organized.

>> Wait a few days before picking up your dry cleaning. Freshly dry-cleaned clothes can emit chemicals that have been linked to cancer and neurological problems, according to the EPA — and it's important to make sure the solvents are completely dry before bringing them into your home. You could also switch to a dry cleaner that uses "wet" or CO cleaning, neither of which emit the same kind of dangerous fumes, according to the EPA.

· >> Go fragrance-free. The EPA warns that some air fresheners can release compounds that cause headaches and eye, nose, and throat irritation. Lemon and pine scents concern experts most, Hildemann says: The chemicals that produce those smells react with ozone in the air to form formaldehyde and ultrafine particles that can collect in the lungs. For a safer room freshener, dip cotton balls in a sweet-smelling extract like vanilla and stash them around the house.

VENTILATE!

Not surprisingly, indoor pollution becomes more of an issue during the winter, when we keep our windows closed for months on end, light cozy (but smoky!) fires, and braise our favorite cold-weather meals in the oven. Not only does cooking produce fumes, but gas stoves release trace amounts of carbon monoxide and nitrogen oxide into the air. That doesn't mean that roasting one turkey is going to hurt you — just like other chemicals, the exposure is cumulative. To reduce yours:

· >> Turn on your stove's exhaust fan. This will ensure that smoke and other chemicals released during cooking don't stick around, Hildemann says.

· >> If you have an attached garage, open the garage door before starting your car — and keep it open for a few minutes after pulling in when you return home. Otherwise, the carbon monoxide from your exhaust pipe can get into the main house; over time, that may increase your family's risk for asthma and even neurological problems. Overexposure to carbon monoxide happens more than people might think, according to the EPA.

· >> Make sure your fireplace flue is working properly, to keep lung-irritating particles in wood smoke out of your indoor air. The EPA recommends having a fireplace pro inspect and clean your furnace, fireplace, or chimney every year.

TWEAK YOUR CLEANING ROUTINE

Remember that dust cloud that followed Pigpen around in the Charlie Brown cartoons? There's actually a scientific term for it — the "personal cloud effect" — and whenever we do housework, we experience it. Dust can cause allergy flare-ups and coughing fits in adults, but what we do to keep dust and grime at bay may actually make matters even worse: Cleaning products are some of the biggest sources of potentially harmful chemicals in our homes. According to one 2007 Spanish study, adults who used aerosolized products for glass-cleaning, air-freshening, and furniture-polishing were 50 percent more likely to develop asthma symptoms over the next several years. What's more, Anne Steinemann, Ph.D., a professor of civil and environmental engineering and public affairs at the University of Washington in Seattle, analyzed the ingredients in popular household products — including a liquid fabric softener, liquid laundry detergent, and dryer sheets — and discovered that many of them emitted chemicals the EPA has ruled as carcinogenic hazardous air pollutants known to have adverse effects on human health.

At this point, you may be tempted to trash everything in your cabinets and run out to buy "all-natural" or "green" replacements. But you can't always believe those buzzwords. "Companies can say their product is natural, nontoxic, or eco-friendly, but there's no real definition for those things," explains Dara O'Rourke, Ph.D., a professor of environmental and labor policy at the University of California, Berkeley, and the founder of goodguide.com, a site that rates the safety of household products. "It's kind of the Wild West right now — you can almost say anything you want on a package." In fact, Steinemann's most recent research discovered that certain so-called "green" products contain just as many cancer-causing chemicals as regular ones. You can't look for specific ingredients to avoid, either: The government doesn't currently require most household-product makers to list ingredients on labels.

So what the heck is a health-conscious (but still clean) girl supposed to do? The best thing would be to use truly nontoxic cleaners like vinegar (see "Simple, Safe Cleansers You Make Yourself" on the next page), O'Rourke says — but you can also change the way you use your current products to reduce your family's exposure to chemicals:

· >> Don't spray cleansers directly on the surface you're scrubbing. Doing that produces a fine mist that you are likely to inhale, says O'Rourke. Instead, spray or pour the cleaner onto a rag or paper towel first, or use pre-wet wipes.

· >> Vacuum often — ideally twice a week — to get rid of excess dust, lead, mold, and pet dander.

· >> Don't dust or mop with dry cloths or dusters. Use a damp cloth instead, so "the particles aren't just getting swept up into the air where you'll breathe them in as you clean," Hildemann says.

· >> Follow directions. There's a reason why labels on most cleaning products say, in big letters: Use with proper ventilation. It's because you're not supposed to breathe the stuff! So if you use traditional cleansers, make sure to open a window.

· We know that some of the fixes our experts suggest here seem very small — it doesn't get much easier than kicking off your shoes — but every little bit helps you and your family live in a safer, healthier house. Fewer chemicals, less dust and smoke — ah, fresh(er) air!

WHERE'S YOUR INDOOR POLLUTION COMING FROM?

Many cleansers and air fresheners contain potentially dangerous chemicals. Go to goodguide.com to see how your picks rate.

Is the chimney working? Cough.

Dry-dusting whips up nasty stuff. Don't breathe in!

Shoe soles track in toxins from outdoors.

SIMPLE, SAFE CLEANSERS YOU MAKE YOURSELF

· Old-fashioned, natural disinfectants like vinegar are nontoxic — and yes, they really do work, says environmental researcher Dara O'Rourke. (If you don't believe it, just ask your grandma!)

· Drain unclogger:

· Mix equal parts baking soda and white vinegar and pour down the drain. Wait two minutes and rinse with hot water. One or two doses of the bubbly mixture should do it, O'Rourke says.

· Toilet cleaner:

· Spritz undiluted white vinegar on the edges of the bowl, scrub with a toilet brush, and flush — the acid in vinegar cleans and removes stubborn stains.

· Germ killer:

· Add plain old liquid dish soap to a bucketful of hot water and get to scrubbin'. Antibacterial cleaners are no better at preventing infection than regular soap and water, studies have shown, and anti-germ products containing triclosan (check labels) may contribute to the formation of superbugs, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention.

http://www.redbookmag.com/health-wellness/advice/health/household-chemicals

The Inspection report says the house is in really bad shape...

10/19/2010 07:38:00

Did the report really say that the house is that bad, or is that what you are getting from the report? I have never said that a home is terrible in an inspection report, I always try to present the issues in a fair & unbiased manner and then allow the client to decide for themselves. Let’s examine some possibilities & see where it takes us.

When I hear this from someone my first thought is that the inspector gave a long list of problems, many of which were probably minor issues, and now the buyer is overwhelmed by the sheer number of problems identified. Take a deep breath and look closely at the list of issues. Many of the minor issues can be taken care of by the homeowner after you have moved in, and can be done over an extended period. As a prospective buyer you need to focus on the major issues, is the structure sound, does the heating or air conditioning system need replacement, is the electrical wiring a safety issue? Major issues and safety issues are the big concern, so examine those closely. Your inspector should have explained the difference in major issues, deferred cost items, safety issues and minor problems. Don’t let a long list of minor issues send you into a panic.

How old is the home? No, not how long since it was renovated, or since the addition was built. When was the home actually built? When people renovate or remodel they rarely rebuild the entire structure, they add or remove walls, move the kitchen to where the dining room used to be, things like that. Renovations are often done by persons who may not have the knowledge and skills to assure that everything is done well. Moving a wall often involves much, much more than simply knocking out a wall here and moving it over there. The same issues exist with wiring, plumbing, heating, air conditioning, and every other system or component of the home. So how old is the home? If you are buying a home that was constructed 60 years ago then you are going to get 60 years worth of issues, be prepared for it.

Electrical Issues in the home

10/18/2010 03:15:00

The electrical system of the home usually does not receive any attention at all unless there is a problem. When was the last time that you actually checked the TEST function of the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCI) in your home? As long as the breakers are not tripping or the GFCI doesn't need to be reset what can you do to check the system anyway right?

There are a number of areas of the electrical system that should be checked on a normal basis. In newer homes GFCI protected receptacles should be present in the garage, at the exterior of the home, in laundry areas, unfinished basements, attics, crawlspaces, bathrooms, and kitchens. Older homes should at least have GFCIs at receptacles serving kitchen counter tops, in bathrooms and at the exterior. The GFCIs should be checked each month to make sure that power is shut off at the receptacle when the TEST button is pressed. Make sure that power is shut off at the receptacles, some older GFCI may not be functional & may still allow for power to be present at the outlet. Check to make sure that you have plenty of working space at the breaker panel. You need to be able to access the breaker panel quickly in an emergency, keep at least 3 feet of clear space around the breaker panel and make sure that you have a clear path to get to the breaker panel. Check receptacles ad switches throughout the home to make sure that they are secure, that the covers are in place and that there are no extension cords being used for permanent wiring.

Last but not least, check the batteries in your smoke detectors and make sure that fire extinguishers are charged and are easy to get to. Take a little time today just to walk around your home & look at these items, the entire walk thru should take around one half hour or so and this small amount f time can help make sure that your home is free from any problems

Prepping for cold weather

10/18/2010 02:52:00

Ok, I have just about finished getting ready for colder weather. I have throughly cleaned and serviced my furnaces, cleaned the gutters, and re caulked some windows and doors. I spent some time in my attic checking the ductwork to make sure that everything looked ok. While I was in the attic I also checked around for insulation that might have moved out of place and I made sure that all my attic vents were still unblocked. I also checked the attic for any sign of leaks since this spring and in general just gave the entire attic some attention to make sure that everything was as it should be.

I also took some time to examine my shingles and all the plumbing vents and the flues. I do need to check the caulking around the dormers at the front of my home, I haven't forgotten those, it's just that the roof pitch on that slope is steeper than most of the remaining roof & I need to address these areas a little differently.

So far the prep work that I needed to do has taken me about 8 hours, and I probably need another 2-3 hours to finish up. Done over a couple of weekends this is not bad and even leaves some time for family or football. If your home is on a crawlspace you have a few other issues that may need to be addressed, foundation vents, checking pipes to make sure that they are insulated, checking floor insulation and vapor barriers. Spend some time in the crawlspace checking everything out, a small amount of time spent here now saves you big on time & money later. Any signs of moisture in the crawlspace should be investigated now, any water in the crawl is an indication of problems & should be dealt with before the problem becomes any worse.

Consider getting a home inspection.

10/14/2010 03:10:00

Buying a home is stressful, and expensive. Taxes, insurance, earnest money, appraisals. Everybody has their hand out for some of your hard earned money. The home inspector should only be concerned with being fair and impartial. The inspection should reveal problems & issues without downplaying any problems or without overstating any issues found.

In todays real estate market there are normally plenty of homes for sale in any area. Recent sales trends have left us with a buyers market, and buyers can get some really good deals on homes right now. A home inspection is one way to insure that you actually do get a good deal on a home. Imagine buying a home and moving in only to find out two weeks later that the roof leaks, or that the plumbing is bad, or that the furnace was really 30 years old...

When were you last in your attic? How about the crawlspace? Would you be able to recognize problems with the water heater? What about the electrical panel? Is the plumbing really in good shape? Well, you get the picture.

The price of a home inspection is really a small price to pay. The cost of the inspection is normally less than what you would pay to buy and install a water heater and the price of the inspection does not even come close to the amount of the closing costs or other fees associated with buying a home.